The Good, the Bad, and the Snow.

I've been reminded recently that it's been a while since I updated here, but circumstances (and admittedly a touch of lethargy) have contributed to this... 

In January/February, I spent more than a month in bed, trying to recover from a nasty bout of typhoid. Very unpleasant. Wouldn't wish it upon my worst enemy.

I first contracted typhoid in 2010, in Bangalore, India. Followed immediately by a dose of dengue fever. I lost 12kgs (27lbs) in one month. And I've never been larger than “slim”. My doctor in Australia warned me that I was prone to re-infection, but I scoffed at him. 
Unfortunately for me, he was correct.

I believe I contracted this recent bout in Kolkata, India, on my return to Bhutan from my daughter's wedding in Australia. So, many weeks lying flat on my back, in excruciating pain, hallucinating and blacking out for days at a time.

And then, in April, I travelled back to Australia for a 3 week trip again, to attend my same daughter's “White Wedding”. 

Her previous December wedding was because she's married a wonderful guy, (Indian parents, but born in Oz.) The family are good, sincere Muslims, so we had a Muslim “Nikah”ceremony then. 

But my lovely daughter also yearned for the traditional western white wedding. Of course, she had it.

4 months later.

But during my recovery in February, a strange event occurred in Bhutan.

You'd expect regular snow in this kingdom, due to its altitude and  proximity to the world's highest mountain range. And according to locals, up until about 8 years ago, heavy winter snow was common and expected. Indeed, the first day of snowfall is always declared a national public holiday.
But in my 3 winters here, the heaviest snowfall I'd seen in Thimphu was merely a light dusting that melted within hours...

 The predominant theory as to this recent lack of snow is because of the ubiquitous and very real global climate change. Bhutan is placed between, and borders upon, the planet's 2 most populous (and polluted) nations, India and China. Between the proverbial rock and a hard place, and at the mercy of both.

So in mid-February, when I travelled west to the more temperate Punakha for a festival, I was surprised to find that we couldn't return to Thimphu, as the road was blocked by heavy snowfalls in the capital. Disappointed at missing this long-awaited spectacle myself, I rang a friend and asked him to take some pics, which he kindly provided.

Thimphu at its glorious best...worth waiting for me to appreciate.

Into Battle! Puna Drubchen.

I was lucky enough to be invited by a local friend, a native of Punakha, and his family to that town last week, to witness what must be one of Bhutan's most famous and spectacular ceremonies.

My newly "adopted" grand-daughter, 8 year old Kuenzang, and her little sister Nikki, with dad Namgay (a famous and much respected movie director in these parts!)

 The annual Dromche or drubchen of Punakha is unusual because of its dramatic recreation of a 17th century battle scene, in which the Tibetan armies invade Bhutan to seize Bhutan's most precious relic, the Ranjung Kharsapani, a self created image of Chenrizing. It is said that Shabdrung concocted an elaborate ceremony in which he pretended to throw the relic into the Mochu River, after which the disappointed Tibetans withdrew. During the course of the festival, a procession of monks led by the head abbot Jekhenpo proceeds to the river, where he throws a handful of oranges symbolizing the relic. During the festival, the 'pazaps' or local militia men, dress in colorful battle gear, ride horses and showcase a battle scene.

Because of my friend's  long acquaintance with these "militia men" (actually, local villagers who take great pride in participating in the re-enactment), I was able to spend 3 days living with them in their camps as they rehearsed in the lead-up to the actual event.

Our road trip from Thimphu to Punakha was interesting, to say the least. It was freezing cold, raining and then the snow started.

This is how the famous 108 Chhortens at Dochula normally look...

 And this is them on this day...

 Bhutanese roads are precarious at the best of times, but this was extreme, albeit with beautiful scenery as always here...

We finally arrived, none the worse for wear. The soggy camp did nothing to dampen the enthusiasm of any of us.


This is the camp, right next to the dzong (fortress), and happily for me, surrounded by Australian Eucalypts ...

After a delicious traditional meal of dried-beef curry with red rice, washed down with suja (butter tea) and excessive amounts of ara (a locally distilled and strong liquor, made from maize and rice), our warriors were ready for action. But first, a prayer, followed by a pep talk.
And some more ara...

Then, off to the dzong for rehearsal...

Up the steps and into the interior, where other celebrations were taking place, to invoke success for the battle ahead...

Our warriors then lined up for battle instructions...and some more ara.

Then, suitably fortified, both spiritually and um, spiritually, back outside for more battle training...

Unfortunately, I couldn't wait around to witness the actual battle, because what I'd originally been led to believe was a one day festival, was now running into its 4th and 5th days, with no guaranteed end even then...the Bhutanese, like the Indians, LOVE a good festival. And I had work to complete back in Thimphu.

But I do have it on good authority that the Bhutanese repelled the invading Tibetan forces!

I'll be back next year to see (hopefully!) the same outcome.

Silver Linings

Up in the the world's highest mountain range, the Himalayas, clouds seem to hang low. Or perhaps the mountains push through them and make them appear that way. I suppose it's a matter of perspective.

But regardless, they make for some spectacular and breathtaking moments as they scud across the ranges and through the valleys, cling to the surrounding hills, or hover ominously above and even below, threatening thunderstorms, snow and always providing a shroud of mysticism.

They are quite mesmerising in real life, with a distinctly spiritual aura.

Hopefully some of that awe translates to the following collection of pictures.

From the land that has a National Park where the Yeti is protected...