To Market, To Market...

One of my most enduring and enjoyable rituals here is the weekly shopping at the Memorial Sabji (vegetable) Markets. I've done this almost every weekend for 4 years now, and never tire of it. A veritable cornucopia of food from far-flung Bhutanese villages, as well as both common and exotic produce trucked in from India.

It's around a 3kms walk (at altitude!) from my latest apartment to the markets, and I love every step of the scenic trip. I can walk it briskly in 20 minutes, but it usually takes much longer, with frequent stops to talk with shopkeepers, monks, new and old friends, giggling school-kids keen to practise their English language skills, to admire the ever-present views of mountains and rivers, and just to enjoy a peaceful contentment and scenic beauty I've never experienced anywhere else.

Depending upon circumstances, there are several routes to the market, and this picture collage combines a few different ones.

Leaving my place, it appears to be washing-day next door...

My 9th and current apartment, Flyover Plaza...

Around the first corner, a beautiful old traditional building, slowly crumbling, but still inhabited...

Further along, a sacred chhorten, with a huge Bhutan cypress (the national tree) growing within it...

The locals come to spin the prayer wheels for blessings. I usually take the time to do that myself...

Then some familiar Australian Callistemon trees (bottle-brushes), showing their beautiful red flowers...

Time to cross the main highway, but check for traffic first...

The local garbage truck with its strident alarm. People stream out of houses, apartments and offices to dump their rubbish...

I notice new signs have been erected. Then remember that the new Indian Prime Minister has decided his 1st official international trip will be to Bhutan, so an auspicious welcome is being prepared...

School kids line the streets to welcome the entourage...

Another Aussie tree, a black wattle, outside the offices of The Kuensel, Bhutan's national newspaper...

Across the Wangchu River is the local athletics field...

 And the Bhutan Army Base...

Around the corner and up the hill, a shortcut through a fuel service-station...

Along the river, a beautiful park with a footpath flanked by blooming Forsythia leads to a large statue of Buddha...

Protected by the omnipresent dragons (Druks), after which this kingdom is named (Druk Yul, Land of the Thunder Dragon)...

Continuing down the road past the National Football Stadium (no match today!)...

A short detour to my favourite grocery store...

The girls are waiting for customers...look at Sonam's arms to see why she's grimacing...

It takes a tag-team to make a sale here...

A quick glimpse of progress on my current work site...a new 5-star hotel.

Then past the archery field, home of Bhutan's national sport. They have to shoot over 140 yards (120 metres...longer than a football field!)

Past the Queen's Memorial chhorten...

 A quick stop at my regular snack shop, for a taste of India...pani puris, chana masala and aloo dum...

Past the policeman directing traffic...

 Just laying around...

 A pause while traffic is stopped. An old, diseased willow tree has been chainsawed but won't fall down. So a crew of Thimphu's finest women workers is gathered on the end of a rope to deliver the last rites...and they succeeded admirably!

If you're a vegetarian, look away now, because this is where I buy a half chicken for my once a week curry...

And finally approaching the market area...

 And to my favourite stall, run by yet another Sonam...

 Every market day, a new adventure!

Lunch in Lungchuzekha

A couple of weeks ago, I was invited by friends to take a short trek to a small goenpa (monastery) above the famous 108 chhortens, at Dochula. Unfortunately, my camera was being recalcitrant, so there aren't as many pics here as I'd like, but regardless...

Arriving at the starting point, with Payal from the USA and Stan, a Polish guy now based in Singapore.  

Also joined by Sonam, Lhamo, Kezang and his son Tashi...

The beginning of the trek up, and we all noticed that someone had erased the estimated time for the walk. Hmmm...ominous?

A hundred metres up, and a last look back at the chhortens...

Actually, I lied. That was the 2nd last look back...

Already time for our first cup of tea. I could see that this wasn't going to be a rapid assault on the summit, but more of a leisurely stroll...suited me fine. I began to understand why that timing on the sign had been scratched off.

 Kezang appears to have misplaced his wallet. But I suspect that Sonam knows where it is...

Time to move on, but first...another chat among friends. It was around this time that I discarded the pitons, ropes, GPS, satellite phone and safety flares.

These man-made steps were built so that the gates could be kept closed, to prevent the yaks coming down the track. But Tashi is obviously an animal rights activist, and decided to give them a free run...

We were now gaining altitude, and the smaller rhododendron scrub began to give way to forests of hemlocks, pines, birch and cypress trees...

 And then...what a surprise! Long-lost friends! (Actually, we'd left them in the car-park below 20 minutes ago, but it felt like longer.)

So, time for a few more snaps...

And the obligatory group photo...

Kezang needed to quickly check how his shares were doing on the stock exchange, while Sonam got chatting to some western guy.

Finally, we pressed forward, onwards and ever upwards, passing some fascinating plants on the way...

Arisaema griffithii, unfurling its spectacular bottom leaves...

  
A baby tree fern, Alsophila costularis...

A magnificent Rhododendron hodgsonii, unfortunately a couple of weeks past its flowering peak, but stunning anyway.

Epiphytic orchids (Pleione praecox), growing through the moss on a large Rhododendron...

 A Himalayan birch (Betula utilis), shedding its upper bark...

And then the final push, up to the goenpa...

Sweeping views from above, but unfortunately obscured by clouds...

 Finally, lunch! We'd all brought tiffin boxes of various curries...chicken, egg (no, I don't know which came first), vegetable, salads, plus rice, dhal, chapattis and plenty of hot, sweet tea.

And then, after packing up, we retraced our steps back down the mountain. Well, actually, that's not strictly true. We took another trail and while not exactly managing to get lost, we did emerge below at an unknown road and had to call our driver to find us.

But all in all, a wonderful day on the roof of the world, with great company, magnificent scenery, full stomachs and aching legs!