On the Road Again…Trashigang or Bust!

The stars finally aligned last week, and I was given the opportunity to visit the distant eastern town of Trashigang, about as far as you can travel within Bhutan from the capital, Thimphu, where I’m based. It’s about 550 kms away by road, although as the crow flies, less than half that. Unfortunately, we aren’t crows. But the winding roads through precipitous mountains and deep valleys, over rickety bridges and through some of the most glorious, untouched forests makes it an unforgettable journey.

My only regret is that being on a bus prevented us from stopping to take pictures of much of the actual trip

The first of these maps shows Bhutan and its place among surrounding countries, and the other shows the route we took, driving from Thimphu, through Wangdue, Trongsa, Bumthang, Monggar and finally arriving in Trashigang. 

A good friend, Wangchuk, wanted to visit his family there after 3 years away, and invited me and a Swedish friend to accompany him and his wife Pema on this most exhausting yet so rewarding trip.

Not for us the luxury of an air-conditioned modern car. We did it like the locals do. In a small, overcrowded bus. It’s a 2 day trip, 12 hours travelling each day, with an overnight stay in Bumthang, where I’ve visited before. But this was a new frontier.

Down to the Thimphu bus station for a 6am departure…

Along the way, we made regular stops for refreshments (usually a cup of souja...butter tea) and to stretch our legs and meet the locals.

A couple of days later, and after taking a local taxi for yet another 25 km trip to Wangchuk's village, which of course wasn't without incident...

...we were greeted with the beautiful sight of his family home, in a village of 250 families on a remote mountain...

Wangchuk's Mum was busy drying rice, maize and of course, the staple food of Bhutan, chillies.

The whole maize cobs are stored under the roof...

As in most areas of Bhutan, the summer harvests are prolific, but need to be safely preserved for the cold winter months.

And if you like cucumbers, this is the place to be...

 
  The dead maize stalks make handy stakes for climbing-beans...

We spent most days on walks to catch the breathtaking sights and views...

...and to meet the neighbours (most of them Wangchuk's uncles, aunts and cousins)...

...and we dropped in to see his grandfather, a remarkably fit and agile old man who lives alone, a kilometre or more along a rough bush track from Wangchuk's home...

 We took him to the village store to buy him some treats...

 and as always, I took pics of some of the fascinating local flora...

...and some fauna...

But more than anything else, this was a trip for Wangchuk to rediscover his family roots, and to remember his childhood days, so he took us for long walks and climbs around his village...

This is the path he walked (climbed!) for an hour each way daily to attend primary school...

And of course, after visiting Wangchuk's Primary school, we had to go and see his old High School. This was a 90 minute walk in the opposite direction, thankfully downhill this time. We caught a taxi back up later.

The path was equally scenic...

Wangchuk's wife, Pema...

 That's his High school on the right, with the football field.

But on the way to the school, we first visited the local Buddhist temple and monastery... I discovered later that this monastery even has its own website! http://www.rangjunggonpa.net/monastery.html

Leaving there, Wangchuk had to try on a new hat from the village shop. Thankfully, he didn't buy it...

 

 And then on to the High school.

We weren't allowed inside unfortunately...

 By now, we were so hot that we stopped at the nearby river for Sebastian, our Swedish friend, to give Wangchuk a swimming lesson...

After this tiring day, we were looking forward to an early night. But it wasn't to be. Villagers began arriving at our house from every direction, to formally welcome us to their village, bringing gifts of food and drink. And then began an impromptu performance of traditional music, song and dance..and more than a little of the strong local beer and even stronger fermented maize alcohol, "ara". It was headaches all around the next morning.

 A couple of days later, we were invited up the mountain for a traditional "cleansing" pooja (festival) in the local monastery/temple, and to meet the local Rinpoche (Head Lama).

 That's the Rinpoche, on the right...

 Outside, the monks were busy making and painting clay models of deities and devils, to be used in the upcoming ceremonies...

As it was our last day here, the family took us to the centuries old ruins of another temple for a picnic...

And of course, there was a cucumber to start the feast...

 A nomad tribe family passed us on their way down to the village in the valley to buy supplies...

Time for a few family snaps...Wangchuk with Mum, Dad and little brother...

 A romantic one of him with Pema...

The next day, bright and early, time to return to the capital...

 ...and a beautiful scene we passed on our way out of Trashigang on the way back to Thimphu, after a wonderful experience I'll never forget.